A Merry Hype? A Natives Perspective on the Viral Black Forest Christmas Market

In a deep ravine surrounded by dark hills and mountains grown over by tall trees beneath the giant arches of a historic train viaduct, small huts decorated with fairy lights line up. Each of them is filled with a variety of goods typical for the region and season. In the back, Santa greets kids and grants them wishes. A small path shows travelers the birth of Jesus. Visitors crowd around campfires, their hands warmed by cups of the obligatory Glühwein (mulled wine) or one of the many dishes one can acquire. Above them all, the clear night sky of wintertime is spattered with distant stars on an otherwise moonless night. Every so often, a train comes by, the horn sounding through the valley, drawing attention from all that are close by.

It sounds like a dream, and one might very well say it is. The Christmas market of the Ravennaschlucht has become a viral sensation in recent years. From as far as East Asia travelers come, just to get a special taste of the spirit of this holy season, otherwise only seen in movies and stories of old. Tickets are sold out months in advance and if one wishes to get their hands on some, they have to go through resellers. Shuttle buses drive in and out, chauffeuring people from three different towns or cities. Each, who travel, have two hours to experience the winter wonderland, before their shipped of and new people are let in. It`s an efficent system, a very profitable at that.

What once was insider knowledge for natives, a small getaway for a couple of hours during the weekend, is now an at times overcrowded tourist destination. I grew up in the Black Forest, so I can`t pretend to be unbiased. I do consider my home region to be one of immense beauty, with many mysteries and places to explore. And as so many, who live in a place where the tourism industry reigns supreme, I`ve become weary of the constant stream of people. Needless to say, I`m no better. I`ve been to London, Loch Ness, Edinburgh, Prague and the Alps this year. Big hot spots when it comes to tourism. This review therefore isn`t supposed to be a deep dive into the question of benefits and critiques of travelling, but it does offer a foundation. Everything beyond that, however, would warrant a discussion more nuanced and researched.

When talking to Natives about the market and reading some of the comments online, a certain disdain is noticeable. Some locals, who once visited the market, now stay far away, deeming it a tourist trap or accusing the event of losing touch with its original intent. The organizers seem aware of this, even putting aside the 5th of December as a day only for visitors living in the region. The sufficiency of this measure is questionable of course, but the thought is there. Christmas markets as found in cities and towns once served the purpose as a place of gathering for local citizens to spend time and eat hot meal together. And while that purpose is still there beneath it all, it gets overshadowed by an ulterior motive: profit.

Headlines this year were filled with rising prices for Glühwein, crepes and more all over the country. The nearest big city Freiburg for example saw complaints for that very reason. In fairness, the Ravenna Christmas market isn`t affected by this, since the Glühwein stands at a price of four Euros, same as the years before. Food prices also stayed consistent. The food also stayed good. I got a crêpe filled with Nutella and banana and as always it was a delightful treat. When talking to others, the wine sounds splendid, though for some the cup with the logo of the market seems more important. It`s iconic to a degree and many people rather leave the two Euro deposit, so they can take one home. I can`t say I blame them.

One positiv is also the array of local sellers. Instead of opting for big brands, almost all huts are run by producers from the area. Whether you want a homemade Schnapps, some marmalade or christmas ornaments and wooden sculptures, the market got you covered. How successful they are, is another questions, lines varying from shop to shop. I myself bought some presents for friends there and the quality leaves nothing to be desired.

Yet the question remains: Is Ravennaschlucht worth the visit, or is the hype ruining the experience?

Let me answer it this way: There is a small hill which gives you a vantage point to oversee the whole market. In the last years it was a small refuge of peace amidst a bustling market, with few daring to tread up the frozen, steep path. But as the years progress, the rim of the way lines up more and more with photographers eager to take their very own picture of this come to life Christmas dream. If that's your jam, then plan accordingly, tickets next year will be sold out just as quickly as this one.

However, if your version of the season of merriment is a peaceful one, it is probably best to avoid the ravine. In that case, maybe one of the many small markets in the cozy villages may be more to you liking. The Black Forest isn`t the home for countless fairy tales without reason. Just take a look, they`re out there, waiting.